At Winchester Cathedral I was given a Pilgrims Passport. I got my first stamp and was allowed in the cathedral free. The passport can be stamped at churches and cafes on the way.

St Swithun was born in Winchester and became bishop in 852. He asked for his remains to be buried outside the cathedral open to the wind and rain. But on 15th July 971 his remains were put inside the cathedral. There was a violent storm and days of rain. This gave rise to the legend ‘St. Swithin’s day if thou dost rain For forty days it will remain St. Swithin’s day if thou be fair For forty days ’twill rain nae mair.’

Henry VIII had his shrine removed. In recent years a canopy has been added with rain on one side.

And sunshine on the other. After leaving the cathedral and houses of Winchester the Pilgrim Way follows St Swithuns Way. There was both sunshine and showers on the first day.

St Swithun’s Way begins as a straight path by a small stream, and then follows beside water meadows with cattle out of Winchester.

The best preparations are so easily undone. I carried my essential guidebook in a plastic cover. It was essential because although the route follows St Swithuns Way and later the North Downs Way, the Pilgrims Way guide tries to keep as close to the original Pilgrim route and frequently leaves these better marked ways and follows other footpaths and roads. I left Winchester carrying the guide under my arm but then discovered I’d dropped it. So I went back about half a mile and, thankfully, I discovered it on a seat where I had stopped for a drink. I could not have done the walk without that guide.

River Itchen

Outside Winchester, I walked through fields that looked down on the River Itchin. The scenery was beautiful, and I enjoyed the peace and quiet.

Church of St Swithun in Martyr Worthy

I came to the village of Martyr Worthy, and visited the church of St Swithun and got another stamp for the passport. I met two other people at the church. I left my guidebook and passport again by the pilgrim stamp. On returning the people suggested, I tie my guidebook around my neck so that I wouldn’t loose it again.

The path next took me through a field of cows. I was careful to avoid the young calves, as I didn’t want to upset the cows who I had to walk through.

The next place I came to was Itchen Abbas, where there was another church. The church was open and I got my next stamp there. It had started to rain and I put on my coat under an ancient yew tree. It was quite famous. The last person to be hung for stealing a horse was buried underneath. After leaving the church, I followed a path that crossed the River Itchin and went by Avington Park. The park had a beautiful avenue of trees.

By now it was raining hard. The path crossed the river and went beside smaller streams with watercress and swans. After some trouble finding the right path, I eventually found the way to New Alresford, the end of the first day’s walk. I was feeling tired.